Seemingly in the middle of nowhere, it appears: a mound thick with crosses of all shapes and sizes and colours, imposing and almost garish in design and number (it is estimated there are at least 100,000 of them). The place: northern Lithuania. The site: the Hill of Crosses. For centuries, Catholic pilgrims and tourists alike have flocked here, whether to deposit their own crosses or to gape in wonderment at the ones already there. I formed part of the latter- I moved about incredulously, camera furiously snapping away.
I was on the second day of my 8-day Busabout tour around Scandinavia and the Baltics: the day before was spent kicking around Lithuania’s capital, Vilnius, and Day 2 saw a brief stop at the Hill of Crosses before heading onward to our first border crossing into Latvia. The Hill of Crosses may be a misnomer, though- crufixes, statues of the Virgin Mary, and rosaries also abound. For believers, this may well be heaven on earth, but for me, this place was plain freaky. At once eerie and gothic, the Hill of Crosses for me had a very Tim Burton-esque feel. The surroundings could have been a film set for Beetlejuice or Edward Scissorhands, I half expected a bizarrely-clad Johnny Depp to poke his head out from behind a statue of Baby Jesus.
No one knows for certain how the practice of putting down crosses started, but in more recent times it has come to symbolize the enduring committment of Lithuanians to their country and staunchly Catholic identity. You see, though Lithuania has been a republic since 1990, it spent much of the last 200 years under Soviet rule, engaging in a number of bloody uprisings in a desperate bid for independence. The Hill of Crosses became a site of peaceful resistance, a place where Lithuanians could go, crosses in tow and ready to plant, to pray for their country and for the lives lost in the wars for independence.
I was shocked to learn that the Soviets had actually bulldozed the hill three times, in an attempt to stymie the Lithuanian’s efforts. However, what I saw around me was proof that they were undaunted.
One word: wow.
Have you ever been to an intensely holy place or one packed with historical importance?
I visited the Hill of Crosses as part of Busabout’s Scandi-Baltic tour. Check out my full review of the trip here!
57 Comments
Wow! This place looks amazing – I am definitely adding this to the “places to go” list.
It was definitely different from anything I’ve ever seen before!
Wow indeed! This is my first time hearing about this place. It’s especially amazing that it’s been bulldozed three times, yet the people have been undeterred. Love it. Great pics too.
It’s very touching and moving. I would feel overwhelm just standing there, especially knowing the significance and history of the place. btw, I nominated you for The Versatile Blogger award on my blog here http://curiouskinks.blogspot.ca/2012/09/versatille-blogger-award.html. Please check it out to see what the award is all about 🙂
This is a bit freaky but cool. It reminds me of the Dollhouse I saw in Toronto though, way over done but I guess all together makes for an interesting sight. Going to the Vatican was an amazing experience and I was more impressed with the historical significance than the religious significance, even with seeing the pope.
Wow, what an incredible place. I haven’t ever heard of it before but now I want to visit Lithuania! Considering that Beetlejuice and Edward Scissorhands are two of my favourite films of all time, I’m thinking I’ll love it there. I’d have to try visit in less pleasing weather though. Sunshine just won’t do.
Wow looks awesome!
Also I can’t believe I missed out on so many of your travels. For some reason I subscribed when you changed to this new address on bloglovin but it wasn’t updating me! I’ll have to go back and read it all now 🙂 You went to so many incredible places it seems!!
I visited in 2004 it was unbelievable!! I’ve never seen anything like it before! Glad to hear you visited Latvia, that is were my parents are from. I hope you will write about Latvia, they have many wonderful places to visit!!
Thanks for sharing!
wow… that’s so cool… I agree with you about the “Tim Burton” effect, but still… awesome to think how this Cross Hill survive after bulldozed three times by Soviet. I might get goosebumps when I visit this place, both in good and creepy way 😀
anyway, it’s a great blog you have… I’ll definitely subscribe! 🙂
Thank you for the insight and keep traveling 😀
Thanks so much, Silananda! I hope you stick around!
The Soviet Union only existed 1917-1991, And Lithuania was part if it from 1945-1990. It was independent between the two world wars and before that it was part of the Russian Empire under the czar.
Yes, I realize that, but didn’t want to delve too much into the history, which is why I made that broader, more general statement. 🙂 Thanks!
Wow. That’s crazy. I never knew about this site. It definitely has a…crowded-in feel.
We visited this place last year. We will go back there again. Love this place!
By the way, do you leave a cross on the hill when you visit this place? That is kind of a tradition there.
Also I wrote a blog post about that as well. See here: http://continentalbreakfasttravel.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/hill-of-crosses-lithuania/
We visited this place last year. We will go back there again. Love this place!
By the way, do you leave a cross on the hill when you visit this place? That is kind of a tradition there.
Also I wrote a blog post about that as well. See here: http://unbeatentracktravel.tumblr.com/post/73995420680/hill-of-crosses-in-lithuania
// doubled clicked submit button. Sorry about that!
I have been there as well, but unfortunately did not leave a cross on that hill. That probably means I will have to come back there again 🙂
I didn’t know that.
Wonderful views on that!
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