Why Mostar, Bosnia is a difficult place to visit.
As the bus rounds the bend and deposits us at Mostar’s coach station, I become filled with an overwhelming sense of dread. After the manicured beauty of Kotor and Dubrovnik, Mostar does not make a good first impression. The town appears alarmingly dilapidated at first glance; pockmarked low-rise buildings and pothole-ridden sidewalks adorn streets that are strangely desolate, even at 4 o’clock in the afternoon. I mutely survey my surroundings and wonder if I made a mistake in convincing Liebling to spend two days here. Spiny fingers of guilt and self-doubt grip my stomach like a vise.
Mostar is rough looking for a reason — victim of an 18 month siege after Bosnia declared independence from Yugoslavia in 1992, the city was almost completely destroyed by bombs. Even over 20 years later, the scars of war are visible, the gaping holes in the sides of the many buildings lying abandoned telling a very sad story. I’ve never seen anything like it.
But it turns out that I have incorrectly judged the proverbial book by its battered cover. The are pockets of beauty and excitement steps away in the old town. Here, the streets are full to the brim with tourists, mostly day-trippers from Dubrovnik who have come to see Bosnia’s most recognizable landmark, the Stari Most bridge, which crosses the sapphire waters of the Neretva River. There is market with booths selling brightly coloured handmade goods, and the restaurants in the area offer an array of delightful smelling fare at low prices. The atmosphere is actually cheery.
However, despite this happy scene, I’m unable to get past the buildings riddled by bullet-holes and massacred by bombs. They are haunting, a symbol of death, pain, and despair.
We stumble upon a graveyard one day and I feel even worse. An inordinate amount of the headstones show death dates between 1992 to 1995, right around the time of the Bosnian-Croat and Bosnian-Yugoslav conflicts.
I often read about war and devastation in the news, but coming face-to-face with its aftereffects is more than sobering. Have you ever encountered something like this in your travels?
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Hi Oneika, your post is very timely as I’ve just written about Sarajevo myself! It was hard to write, because it was hard to sort through what my reactions were and how to put them in words. It’s funny that you describe seeing the outskirts and devastation of Mostar before the beauty of the Old Town, whereas I saw it in the opposite order. We’re so lucky that we’ve been able to see these places, and therefore learn about what went on there. So many of us are ignorant to the recent war, such as myself not too long ago. Thanks for showing your perspective on it, too 🙂
I can only imagine how hard that must be. The only similar place (and it’s not really similar at all) is the last major shooting that happened in Australia happened in a tourist location Tasmania…It’s prisoner ruins from convict times and then recently dozens of people died and were injured there (about 15-20 years ago I think). It feels sad. I can’t really explain it.
I can’t imagine what it feels like to be in a whole city like that.
I like the juxtaposition of the war-battered building next to the modern building. I’ve never traveled to a place that’s still recovering from a war. Thankfully, you were able to find that Mostar is visit-worthy in spite of its recent struggles.
What lenses do you use? great pictures!
yes, the building with bullet holes next to the renovated bilding is a bit hard to take in. We once drove past a city in Nigeria where they had just experienced some form of tribal war. The entire city was empty, burnt buildings evrywhere, blood and just disaster. I was so scared! Mind you I was around 12yrs old then. My heart always breaks when I read about kids being victims of war, it’s just so upseting.
A very interesting read on a city that is mentioned too often only because of its bridge. I think it must have been painful to visit it, but to see that there are some signs of reconstruction is a good thing. I remember seeing the Bosnian war everyday in the news when I was little. It was terrible! We really felt it from north-eastern Italy as it is so close!
Great post! We were just traveling throughout Bosnia and Herzegovina and there are heartbreaking reminders of the all to recent war everywhere you look, especially in Mostar. We climbed up in abandoned buildings that became the “sniper towers” along the front line, and found shell casings all over the place (and it’s been over a decade!). Nice to see people working together to fix places in the neighbourhood we stayed in. Thanks for sharing your experiences…safe travels!
You had me fooled there for a second! A very insightful piece, Oneika. Thanks for sharing!
I understand how you felt in Mostar very well as it brought the same emotions to me. I was there over a year ago yet I still can’t get it out of my head and both Mostar and Sarajevo developed in me some kind of weird fascination in the Balkans war. Ever since I’ve been reading and watching a lot of documentaries about it as I’m trying to understand the whole conflict (yet I still can’t). My visit in Armenia and the Genocide Museum in Yerevan had a very similar impact on me
I think it can be good to visit some of the harder places, as well as the picture-postcard-perfect spots. When I went to Berlin I enjoyed the food and culture… but I also made a point of spending time with some of the more sobering memorials, which were very well put together. (Though I didn’t get to see enough, really, as I was there for a conference and didn’t have that much spare time.)
I find place where the after effects of war are still visible very moving and interesting. I prefer it to a museum where you see some war artefacts. But even though the bullet holes are part of the city’s history, the inhabitants do deserve fresh wall to be able to put the past behind them. I would love to visit Bosnia, it’s on the top of my list for Europe!
Thank you very much for your post! Most of the people show the Stari Bridge Most and nothing else.
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Dear Oneika! Thank You for such an interesting insitful story about your visit to Bosnia. I was in Bosnia the year of 2011 exactrly at the same city of Mostar and Old Bridge. We stayed at a very nice Museum/guest house of Muslim culture and it was really impressive. The host (its the family owned hotel) was very friendly and kind. Mostar is UNESCO heritage. I felt very exited about the views and the river, but felt very sorry for people there and the hard experience they had to take on some 20 years ago. When visited a cemetery I burst into tears, – so difficult to see all the grave stones, read the names and count the years of staying on the Earth and then pass away because of war, bombings. It was real shock to me what made to appreciate me more what I have and realise how fragile the peace and life can be.
Mostar is always in my mind, one day I have to return there again.
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