A reflection and resource guide on how to spend 14 days touring Southern Africa.
I’ve gotten so many questions about my recent travels to Southern Africa that I figured I would share my itinerary. If you haven’t been following my enthusiastic posts on Instagram and Facebook, Liebling and I spent two weeks exploring South Africa, Botswana, and Zambia, and upon reflection I can honestly say it was one of the most EPIC trips I have ever taken.
Why? Well, for one, I was visually, culturally, and intellectually stimulated on this trip in a way I never have been on my travels before. Most of the time I go to regions that are either physically stunning (like Bolivia and Chile), steeped in history (like Egypt), or challenge me culturally and intellectually, because the way of life and predominant ways of thinking are so different from what I’m used to (like China and India). Rarely am I engaged on all these levels simultaneously.
But this trip was a different story.
I was dazzled and humbled by the sights. I learned about animal behaviour, the resilience of the human spirit, and the history of hate. I tasted both adventure and local cuisine. I bore witness to injustice and was reminded of my privilege.
I hiked up a mountain, jumped off a bridge, and held on for dear life as I perched on the edge of a precipice, swirling waters roaring below me. I saw my face reflected in the people around me. I laughed, cried, and was taken by surprise. I was filled with marvel at the majesty of nature and the breadth of the human experience.
There were so many layers to this journey and I’m hoping to share more in future posts. I really want to document this trip in particular because I feel like my core readership (Americans and Canadians) treat travel to Africa like an unruly stepchild: unworthy of attention or simply not worth the hassle.
So it is with this in mind that I share my itinerary. Here we go…
Johannesburg, South Africa (2 days)
Joburg was a natural way to begin our exploration as OR Tambo Airport serves as the first point of entry into South Africa for most international flights.
+What we saw/did: Visits to Constitution Hill, Apartheid Museum (an absolute MUST), Soweto and Mandela House (Nelson Mandela’s residence from 1946 to 1962). Strolls through Maboneng (funky neighbourhood that is home to black creatives) and Melrose Arch (swanky gated community with lots of cafes and restaurants with patios).
+Accommodation: Protea Fire & Ice Melrose Arch. This Hollywood-themed hotel was clean and modern, if a bit loud due to a number of events being held in the conference rooms and common areas. However, it was a steal– we paid $100 USD/night for a king room (not including breakfast).
+Food: The Grillhouse (steak house located in the residential neighbourhood of Sandton). I’m not a beef eater, but the restaurant came highly recommended and Liebling throughly enjoyed his filet.
Kruger National Park, South Africa (2 days)
A visit to South Africa isn’t complete without going on at least one safari. After Johannesburg, we decided to head to Kruger, the best known of all game parks in the country.
+What we saw/did: This stage of the journey was all about the animals. On our very first game drive we saw the “Big Five” (lion, elephant, leopard, rhino and buffalo), and on our three subsequent drives we spotted a healthy variety of other creatures.
I made the video below chronicling the experience. It was INTENSE!
+Accommodation: Elephant Plains Lodge. Technically located in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve (a private game reserve that borders on Kruger National Park) this was a great place to lay our heads. We paid $360 USD/night for our villa, 2 daily game drives, and all meals (not including beverages), which I thought was expensive until I realized that a) the price was all-inclusive and b) it was one of the cheapest lodges in the area.
+Food: All meals were provided by the lodge and I ate until I couldn’t eat any more. Suffice to say, it was tasty.
Blyde River Canyon Nature Reserve, South Africa (1 day)
Before flying to Zambia, we stopped at this nature reserve that is part of the Drakensberg mountain range. It’s located about 3 hours outside of Johannesburg.
+What we saw/did: God’s Window (popular vantage point), Bourke’s Luck Potholes (natural rock formations and pools), The Three Rondavels (another popular vantage point consisting of three round peaks said to resemble traditional African huts).
+Accommodation: Premier Hotel OR Tambo, found next to the airport in Johannesburg. Since we were flying out the next morning to Zambia, it made sense to stay here. It wasn’t fancy, but our room was massive, modern, and great value for $85 USD.
Livingstone, Zambia and Kasane, Botswana (4 days)
This is where the adventurous, hair-raising aspect of the trip ramped up.
+What we saw/did: Swam on the edge of Victoria Falls(!), jumped from Victoria Fall Bridge (!!!), then crossed into Botswana to complete a 2-day, 1-night safari in Chobe National Park (which is known widely for its huge elephant population). We also got to learn more about Zambian history after visiting the Livingstone Museum.
+Accommodation: Green Tree Lodge (Livingstone). Fairly basic and expensive at $90 USD/night, but the owner, Andrew is lovely.
Jollyboys Backpackers (Livingstone). This lodge and camp, run by fellow Canucks Kim and John, is a hub of activity and a great place to meet other travellers. Jollyboys is also a tour operator– they organized our Victoria Falls excursions as well as our safari with Kalahari Tours. Our double room with ensuite bathroom was simple but spotless and an absolute steal at $65 USD/night.
Cape Town, South Africa (5 days)
Stunning Cape Town was the perfect coda to our African adventure.
+What we saw/did: Table Mountain hike, visits to the Robben Island Prison Museum (a heart-wrenching must), Bo Kaap (multicultural area known for its brightly coloured houses), V&A Waterfront, Stellenbosch (renowned wine region), Cape of Good Hope/ Cape Point, Boulder’s Beach and Betty’s Bay (where you can see African penguins). Scenic drives through Chapman’s Peak, Hout Bay, Camps Bay, and Hermanus.
+Accommodation: Radisson Blu Le Vendome. This hotel was recently acquired by the Radisson brand and is in the process of being completely renovated. Older but spotless, it was the best deal on accommodation we got on the whole trip. It was only $50 USD/night for a huge room!
+Food: We dined at Nelson’s Eye, NV-80, and Hussar. These all are top rated steakhouses dotted around the city. Again, I don’t eat beef but my dinner companions all vouched for the quality of the food.
Biesmallah. Located in historic Bo Kaap, this restaurant specializes in Cape Malay cuisine. The Cape Malays are an ethnic group in South Africa who are mostly descended from enslaved Indonesians brought to Africa by Dutch colonizers. The food, at least to me, is a mash up of Southeast Asian and Indian flavours. Great taste and hearty portions!
Miscellaneous tips
+ Go now— South Africa is cheaper than it’s ever been. The South African rand is struggling, which means things are infinitely cheaper if you come with U.S. dollars.
+ Rent a car. We rented a vehicle in Cape Town and Johannesburg and it was the best idea ever. It was convenient and saved us loads of time. Public transport, from what we saw, is not the best.
+ Check visa requirements carefully. We had every intention of seeing the Zimbabwean side of Victoria Falls until we realized Uni-visa, the joint visa that allows tourists to enter both Zambia and Zimbabwe for the low cost of $50 USD, had been suspended until future notice. Instead, we paid $80 USD for a multiple entry visa to Zambia and decided not to enter Zimbabwe as planned; at $75 USD for a single entry visa it just didn’t make sense for us.
+Book flights on low-cost carriers to get you around the region. No-frills airlines like Safair, Mango, and Kulula are an inexpensive way to get around if you’re short on time.
+Make sure you have at least two empty pages in your passport! South African border authorities require all travellers entering the country to have at least two free pages in their travel documents, though it’s unclear as to why. A gentleman on our flight back to Johannesburg was nearly refused boarding, though after a fair amount of fuss was allow to get on (could be because he is a South African national). At any rate, the hassle isn’t worth it. Make sure you don’t run afoul of this rule!
A photo posted by @oneikatraveller on
+A note on safety. While heard alarming things about safety in Cape Town and Johannesburg (from both tourists and locals), I’m happy to report that no point during the trip did we ever feel as though we were in danger. With that said, we were always careful– luck may very well have been on our side. Exercise caution and keep a level head.
That’s it for my first post on our time in South Africa, Botswana, and Zambia! I hope it was helpful and sparked a bit of wanderlust within you! I have more photos and pictures to share, so be sure to check back for updates.
Have you ever been to this region? Does this sort of trip interest you?
133 Comments
Lovely post! Definately interested in these countries. Have been to Zambia ( years ago we took a bus trip from Nairobi, Kenya through beautiful Tanzania and finally getting to Mpika, which is in Northern Zambia)..I surely plan to do this region (by bus)..
Glad you went to Africa though, showcase our beautiful continent!!
My husband and I have been talking about making a trip to this area of Africa after our upcoming Japan trip (whenever we can then save up enough money to go, so not sure of when yet). This guide is a great jumping off point for me, so thank you for that! When it was all said and done, about how much would you estimate a trip like this costs in total? Obviously every trip is different depending on so many factors, but wondering just as a starting point to get a good figure in my head. I can’t wait to go. Wish I didn’t have to save up all that pesky money first!
I have been to Johannesburg and Cape Town twice in the past two years. It was very worth it. The first experience in October 2014 was part of tour group, including a safari. The second experience was in November 2015(glitch fare). My twin sister and I had an awesome time in both instances. Love Table Mountain. We didn’t experience Cape of Good Hope the first time in 2014, but did in 2015. We are looking forward to attending the Essence Music Festival in Durban next year. The dates have not been released yet. Thank you for sharing your experience.
Wow …I am planning on going to AS this november. I have in mind to visit Johannesburg and Cape Town (maybe Pretoria and Durban…) How did you find the weather during this period ?? Well I have soo many questions in mind and few concerns.. If you have a bit of time to answer few of my questions it would be greatly appreciated. 🙂
Virginia
Hallo Virginia,
Am happy to answer some of your questions and help you put together a South Africa itinerary and an extension to Victoria Falls should you want to visit this amazing wonder of the world. Between 1st October and 31st April, this is the high season in nearly all of South Africa and so the accommodation prices including rental cars are high, the peak season for most accommodation in major cities including the major game parks is between mid December and mid Jan
Winter: May to July – is characterised in the higher-lying areas of the interior plateau by dry, sunny, crisp days and cold nights, sometimes with heavy frosts. And sometimes there’s even snow but in Western Cape
Summer, which lasts from mid-October to mid- February, is characterised by hot, sunny weather – often with afternoon thunderstorms that clear quickly, leaving a warm, earthy, uniquely African smell in the air.
Western Cape, with its Mediterranean climate, is the exception, getting its rain in winter.
Spring lasts from August to mid-October
Autumn is from mid-February to April.
Any other information that pertains to your planning of your trip to South Africa I can help you with this too, just let me know.
Thanks
Cyrus
Was that elephant walking on the road you were driving on?
I greatly enjoyed this post. Have been to many of the places you listed and enjoyed your take on such an interesting region in all regards: cultural, historical, political, natural, etc 🙂
I lived in Namibia for three years though and think you missed out on skipping it!
Outstanding stuff, Oneika! I have been looking at flights to JNB from the US east coast for the past couple days and kicking myself trying to figure out how I can possibly make a trip to South Africa work out this Fall. Alas, school, work, and planning a wedding has a way of getting in the way of adventure 😉
However, if any fellow US and EU readers are healthy and of means to contemplate this trip…I say treat yo self to the current rand:USD/EURO rates! In fact, one of the Mid-East’s Big Three carriers has some outrageously low fares to RSA and elsewhere in Africa right now via DOH.
Happy traveling!
‘Lovely post Oneika!
Yes. I’ve been to South Africa. It was gosh, 12 years ago! A German girlfriend of mine had a house out there and invited me to come and visit. So I did. I spent about 2 weeks there and had a whale of a time and a different insight, being that she was an expat local. I spent a lot of time with German expats and a few British ones!
My fave part was the Bo Kaap district, the safari, the penguins, and the Waterfront. We went on a private tour of the township which I didn’t really like, as I felt seriously uncomfortable looking at other people of colour as if in a zoo. Having said that, I was able to chat with locals and they were pleased that a person of colour was a participant of tours about their country and other activities of cultural interest, etc. They were very proud. 🙂
In fact, it was in Cape Town that I bought my first original piece of art in a gallery. For $250 – an absolute steal!!
p.s. I’ve been all over North Africa and a bit of West Africa but where I would really like to go is to Ghana! That country seriously has heaps of history, art and culture, and the people are fascinating to boot.
This looks like an amazing trip Oneika. I’ve always said that I’d go to Africa later when my kids are older but you’ve really got me thinking that maybe I should go sooner.
Ah, brings back memories of our trip in 2003, it’s a shame you couldn’t nip over to Namibia or into the Okavango Delta in Botswana, amazing places. I’d recommend a return trip just to take in what Namibia has to offer.
Cape Town – Windhoek (using Cardboard Box Travel Shop) – Botswana – Zambia – Malawi and back again, granted we had a year and a half to fit it all in !!
Salut Oneika. I have been so inspired by your recent travel to South Africa, that I have now decided to go. I have to admit, that I always got inspired to go earlier but then would watch some DVD’s on Apartheid and would be discouraged to go. I knew that I could not limit myself to travelling to South Africa because of its history, but I needed to know when the time was right! I am French and Caribbean (Martinique et Guadeloupe) and my hubby is German 🙂
How did you feel as a mixed couple in South Africa? I have taken notes of all your tips, and will keep you posted, we are planning to go for Easter, as it won’t be too cold yet! I am also a teacher, so I have 2 full weeks! Simply cannot wait now 🙂
I had a blast in SA too, I definitely want to get back soon to see more of it. Did you get to try the milkshakes at the Protea Fire & Ice? They were SOOO yummy 😀
Thank so much for sharing your travel experience. I’ve always wanted to go to South Africa. What would you say is a reasonable per person budget to do this itinerary in USD?
Thanks for the recap – it looks like an amazing trip! I’m wanting to visit Southern Africa in the next year or so, so this gives me a great idea of how much I can see in ~2 weeks. I’ll probably be going solo, so I don’t know if I’d want to rent a car – if you had gone without Liebling, would you have wanted to do this same route solo? I’m not really a group tour person, but maybe for something like this it would make sense.
Oneika! This is great insight, I was hoping to do a similar trip (probably including Namibia) next year and your pictures are absolutely amazing! I’m already excited and I haven’t even booked yet!
Thank you!
Jo
http://www.theglobalgriot.com
This was fun to read as I grew up in South Africa and as kids we went as often to the Kruger Park as we could….all four siblings squashed into one car trying to see lions and elephants and not fight with each other too much. Glad you had such an epic trip!
Just signed up to follow your blog. Take a peek at our visit to Sri Lanka recently…
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Brilliant post. I had to cancel a trip to Zimbabwe this year due to work and study commitments, and this post has really made me wish I was still heading to Southern Africa! It sounds like you had a fantastic time. A well-written and informative post as always, thank you! 🙂
Nice to see my country, Zambia feature here. I was in Livingstone in December of 2015, spent a week there; with a few days in a tent at Maramba River Lodge. A trip to Kruger sounds too tempting, though I have been to countless number game drives here in Zambia. Cheers, keep up the good posts. 🙂
What a great informative post! I’d love to go to those countries!
Thank you!
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I met and had lunch with Nelson Mandela and promised him that some day I will visit his country…….I am ready now so Im planning for next year. Thanks for sharing
We took our toddler to South Africa for his first international trip and visited Johanesburgh, Durban, and Cape Town. It was glorious. We did AirBnBs and rented a car. It was super fun. He took his first steps while in Cape Town!
We had such a good time. We are adding a little girl to our family and can’t wait to return.
Hi Oneika, Great itinerary. Did you use a travel group for this trip or did you book everything separately on your own.
I’m here now in Joburg, I return to the states tomorrow. I spent 2 weeks also. I did joburg, Cape Town and Mauritius! I did a day safari at Pilanesburg and that was awesome, the next time I come I definitely want to do at least one overnight at Kruger. I loooooved Cape Town and wish I had scheduled more time there! Next time I’ll probably fly straight into Cape Town.
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“I feel like my core readership (Americans and Canadians) treat travel to Africa like an unruly stepchild: unworthy of attention or simply not worth the hassle” – As an American, OUCH! I have been to dozens of countries and I have to say, Namibia has been my all-time favorite vacation. I loved every single second of my time there. I’m not sure any destination will ever top it! I also spent weeks in a remote village in Kenya. And now, looking at the places you’ve written about. So for this American, Africa holds a VERY special place in my heart. Thanks for the information!
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