The BBC interviews me about race, racism, and travel, as well as my experiences of “travelling while black”.
Travel and culture. Race and travel…. Travel and racism.
We’re quick to conflate the first one: travel and culture go together like rice and peas (excuse the Caribbean reference) or burger and fries. We travel to discover, eat from the table of the other, see what they have built and how they live.
But many are reluctant to talk about race and travel. How the colour of your skin may impact your stay, your experiences, and how you are perceived. I’ve touched on this before, musing here on how “travelling while black” has changed the scope of my travels. I’ve wondered aloud on this blog whether I should be mad at the people in those faraway places who take my picture expressly because I’m black , or tire of the well-meaning people who can’t help but touch my skin or hair without asking because they’ve never seen anything like it in real life. I’ve discussed the complexity behind the intense desire for fair skin in Asia, which results in a sea of umbrellas on sunny days in parts of China, and a barrage of skin bleaching agents available for sale in the tiniest corner shop in Indonesia.
We don’t want to conflate race, racism, and travel but they are often issues at the forefront of the minds of travellers of colour, and need to be discussed.
For this reason, I was both thrilled and honoured when BBC Radio contacted me for an interview with host Nesta McGregor about this topic. Apologies for the massive delay in sharing: the interview was broadcast last summer, but I was only recently able to get my hands on the footage. In the interview, I talk about my experiences as a black woman who travels and answer the question “Does the fear of racism ever put you off going to certain holiday destinations?”
Have a listen and let me know what you think! And I’d love to know your answer as well. Does the fear of racism ever stop you from seeing the world?
69 Comments
Loved your interview..strange that you had some guys cat-calling while you were in Dublin, there are many black folk there so I don’t know why they did that..I would be terrified if I was alone and a group of guys did that, was great you managed to walk away.
I commented on the same issue on Instagram, I think there’s a difference in treatment between how the black is received as a tourist/traveller as opposed to the black who has to stay for a longer period in foreign countries. Blacks go to places like India and Russia and come out with endearing stories and photo ops of the Taj Mahal and the domes to accompany their lovely tales…my siblings who’ve studied in both places for years relate that there are many instances they were referred to as ‘black monkeys’ and in Russia especially riding in the metros have had old women elbow them in the ribs, harassment by police in the streets and most dangerous, encounters with skinheads who have a history of ganging up on lone students (black, Asian etc) and lynching them, there have been so many deaths in the past.
My personal experience: the staring in Asia has been uncomfortable at times, but I know it’s just curiosity for many so I let it ride and pretend that I’m enjoying a celebrity moment, I love Asia..the food and weather, so I always look forward to trips there. The Balkans was a surprise for me, some young guys asked to take a oucture with us in Pula, Croatia..but in Dubrovnik I was happy to leave, I found Sarajevo in Bosnia interesting, the locals were warm and really friendly..an elderly man who didn’t know a word of English wanted me to stay there (according to his friend), and this drunk guy on the rain from Mostar to Sarajevo almost made me miss my train by his incessant fawning and calling me his ‘black chocolate’ ..that was funny! In Phuket, some grown men kept asking me to go with them to Pattaya and would giggle and whisper among themselves, I found that irritating. I have also found that wherever there has been negative experiences, somehow I’ve also met humane people so Im not going to give up on humanity!
But ultimately, I think safety concerns more than the fear of racism is what I look for as a mostly solo black female traveler..for even in my home city here in Tilburg, I do get followed about in clothing stores because of my race, I live in a neighborhood that is not too friendly and what to do, if you can bear it at home, you might as well manage it while out there!
Hi Caroline! Yes, I think it’s important to note that these are my impressions as a black chick who is only *visiting* — I’m quite sure that living in a place is a completely different kettle of fish!
Loved your answers (and the mention of Stand your Ground in USA yesss). I totally agree, I refuse to let fear stop me from traveling to places I’m interested in seeing.
Thanks Nicole!
thanks for this article. first there were places i think i will never go like russia or tadjikistan.
i am opened and willing to go anywhere but some fears developped by some others experiences stopped me from now. but there are just places i will never go alone. i am black french speaker from africa leaving in france.and from my experience people make difference between black people from africa and from the US. i will not call it racism but it can affect the way you are welcomed.
thanks you for telling us that this is possible
bonne suite dans tes aventures!!!!
Merci merci d’avoir laissé un commentaire! Je suis d’accord avec toi quand tu dis que tes experiences à l’étranger sont parfois différentes de celles des afro-améicains; quand j’habitais en France j’en discutais beaucoup avec mes amis africains. Je suis pas certaine, mais je pense que c’est dû au fait que la culture afro-américaine est super répandue et donc bien connue mondialement?
Fantastic interview! Really interesting hearing about your experience in Dublin. I’ve encountered a lot of the same things you mentioned… people taking my photo because I’m really fair skinned, touching my hair or skin without my permission. It’s odd, but I guess when you’re raised somewhere that isn’t very multicultural, some of the “no-brainer” etiquette that is natural for us is just not there.
I agree completely! In North America we are hyper aware of race and that tempers our interactions with “the other” in many ways.
Thank you so much for sharing this with us. I respect the fact that you kept it objective and didn’t judge everyone based off of that group of guys. I have experienced what you described more than once where I live, and it’s true, you have to just understand they are not too bright!
Also, bringing up the “fear” that even exists in America.
Nice
Thanks Candy! I think it’s really important to maintain objectivity and not paint a whole country with a broad brush based on one or two experiences. As I’ve said, I have met really nice Irish people since!
Loved that you said you would go anywhere as long it was not a war zone. To answer your question I am not afraid to go anywhere because of my race or gender.
I am showing my age but when I was 20 I dropped out of school 6 weeks before I graduated from university and traveled solo for 6 years. The places I liked I stayed Greece 2 1/2 years, Sudan and Kenya 6 months each. It was rare to meet a black American that was not in the military. I returned to the US in 1980 (told you I was old). There are so many places I would like to return to eg the old Yugoslavia and USSR and of course see new places.
Thanks so much for mentioning ‘Stand Your Ground’. I just discovered your blog and plan to read old posts.
Mona
Thanks so much for your comment and for listening Mona! Your experiences travelling solo sound amazing. I wish that I could travel for an extended period of time — alas I have had to work full-time to pay bills and pay-off loans so I’ve only been able to travel during breaks. What was Sudan like? A friend of a friend has just moved to Khartoum for work, what an interesting experience that must have been!
Oneika,
When people ask me where they should visit. I always ask are you going for the food, the people, the culture, the country, uniqueness, the dessert or ice cream? Sudan for me had the food, the people and the culture, beauty of the country and unique. I fell in love with Sudan.
The weddings are fabulous, the way the women dance (single) is based on pigeons. The single ladies are looking for a spouse-the moms, aunts etc of single males are watching the single women and looking for someone for their male family member to marry. The engaged women will get up and dance for their fiance and his family but a different style of dance. .
I dropped out of school and had no responsibilities or bills then, that is how I managed to be away for so many years. Once I started working I could only get away for a few weeks at a time or long weekends (loved the airline weekly emails super cheap fares).
My question for you Oneika what are your favorite countries?
Mona
Speaking of travel and racism…I’ve always wondered why you don’t seem to travel to countries where there are people of African descent? The African countries you’ve visited are places like Morocco and Egypt where there is a large Arab influence. There are very few Caribbean countries documented as well. Is there a reason you don’t travel to places where people of African descent/who look like you are the majority? Personally, traveling to these places is a breath of fresh air. The ability to physically blend in yet still experience another country’s culture is vastly underrated. Could it be because you don’t want your partner to be uncomfortable?
I hope you travel to some of these places in the future. I think those experiences will be as enriching as Europe and Asia.
I have been to Kenya, Tanzania, and Zanzibar, but went long before I started blogging seriously. 🙂 The reason I haven’t been to more African countries is primarily due to cost (of plane tickets) and geographic location! I’ve been based in Europe and Asia for the last eight years so it has just been more cost effective to explore around these regions. I had tentative plans to travel to Ethiopia and South Africa in late 2014 but unfortunately they fell through. My dad lives in Jamaica but I haven’t been in ages — hoping to travel there and to more of the Caribbean once I move to New York.
As for travelling with Liebling, he’s as keen to travel to these places as I am! I’m curious to think he would be uncomfortable though. Is it because he is white?
At any rate, my experiences in Kenya, Tanzania, and Zanzibar were amazing and it was definitely cool to be part of the majority for once while travelling. It was funny, while I was there people (particularly the kids) thought I was local and often approached me whilst speaking Swahili! Sadly I couldn’t communicate with them. But it was still awesome to be amongst people who looked like me. Can’t wait to travel the region more thoroughly!
Yes, I made the comment because he is white. Unfortunately, race matters in the word. Generally speaking, I think people of color have an easier time adjusting to different cultures because we are so often put in the position of “the other”. White people can, if they choose, go their entire lives without having to truly interact with people of color. I don’t think the same is true in reverse.
I am Kenyan and we have so many International organizations and NGOs in Kenya, a good number of embassies are based in Kenya, (many westerners therefore) and tourists often visit to see the wild animals..we’ve had a few terrorist attacks recently and that has driven some tourists away but I think Oneika’s hubby wouldn’t have a problem blending in. I agree, costs can be daunting, rates for good hotels in Kenya are off the roof..and they complain I visit Asia too many times!! Asia is extremely pocket friendly, and Eurooe where I live is so accessible within the continent,.
I agree with you about the hotels, Caroline! I stayed in a fairly basic place in Nairobi and paid well over $100 USD a night!
I totally get where you’re coming from and I agree! I think that white people often don’t have to think about their whiteness because they are so used to being the majority. Liebling grew up in Berlin surrounded by many different peoples and has travelled on his own to places like Jamaica and India where he was the only white face. So not a problem for us, luckily!
I vividly recall a sunny summer 2001 day in Dublin sullied by a pack of hooting lads directing their primate-like sounds at me. Like the clouds they quickly passed but I always wondered what it must been like for sunkissed brothers and sisters who actually live there. My overall stay was lovely and I had the fortune of having a great host family. I did learn later from African and fellow West Indians who spent time in IRE that it was a mixed bag. As Oneika aptly points out–which country isn’t!?! If you have the means–find a way to travel. Queue up Mark Twain quote…
Yesssss!! Love your description and your reaction.
Great interview. I didn’t picture your voice like that. I don’t think l have or will let the fear of racism stop me from visiting a place. There are a lot of places l really have no interest in seeing, and much prefer to go back to places l have been and loved. I loved Malta, we lived there for 15 months with no problems. Ironically, the last week we were there, l was walking my dog in the early morning, and some kids were yelling out of their car, obviously drunk, first to some guy across the way, but as soon as they saw me, they kept yelling the N word, and slowed down. I was so shocked, and just stood there. I guess l have been very sheltered as this was a first for me. I didn’t let it sour my time in the country though, but l fear it’s getting worse over there, as they have so many refugees. My husband is Italian, and he felt right at home in Nigeria. Most people are just proud to show off their country to strangers. There is racism everywhere though.
I’m reading Adichie’s “American” right now and came across the ‘Traveling While Black’ passage–how apropos!!
Nice!! I’m a big fan of that book also!
Great interview Oneika! You really did a great job of providing a balanced outlook on travel and loved your recommendations of countries to visit… I’ll have to add them to my own list!
Thanks as always for the support, Colleen!
Oneika,
I have followed your posts for years and I love them. It was great hearing your interview. For some strange reason I thought you were a Brit. I’m with you on not traveling to war zones. I’ve visited about thirty countries. I love travel and plan to roll until the wheels fall off. Like you, I’ve often chosen destinations based on their expense. Sometimes I travel somewhere because a friend wants to go there. When asked if I want to go with a friend I always say yes, whether it is to China, Italy or Hawaii.
On the color thing, two years ago I took a month long solo guided tour of India. When I mentioned that I was Black, my driver told me that I was not black but brown. He told me that Southern Indians are black. He was right, in a way, because I was much lighter than many Keralans I saw while traveling. Color meant a completely different thing in India than in the US. Indians thought that I must be “some sort of man” because I am tall, short haired, and traveling alone. Indian women tend to be petite and long haired. I didn’t fit into the tourist category either because everyone knows that tourists are white (ha!).
Thanks for listening Char! I’m Canadian through and through, even say “eh” and “sorry” all the time LOL. That’s a really interesting observation about India, I didn’t notice that attitude toward colour when I was there! That said, I was only there for a little over a week and based in the north.
I’m a couple of years late on this post but thanks so much for sharing and encouraging us to see the world. I had an uncomfortable experience a year ago in Spain and for a year I was afraid to travel to places I thought would be hostile. Finally I let go and started my adventures again and couldn’t be happier for it. Situations may happen but as you say they are individual.
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