I went to Machu Picchu… six months ago. While there’s usually a lag between living my travels and blogging my travels, there’s a reason that I haven’t written about my journey to MP until now- I didn’t particularly enjoy it. Why? Because while the epic nature of seeing such a hallowed tourist destination is undeniable, the road to Machu Picchu for me was one marked by illness, annoyance, and a big fat helping of fatigue.
I’ve never been one for bucket lists, but for many years I dreamed of seeing Machu Picchu in person. The verdant mounds in Peru are probably one of the most recognizable tourist sites in the world; those who have been will wax poetic about how magical an experience it was.
But for me? It was not magic. In truth, Machu Picchu didn’t move me much.
Far from soul stirring, I wanted to leave shortly after my arrival. Liebling and I actually got into a little spat- while he wanted to stay and bask in the majesty of MP, I was impatient to jump on the next bus and hightail it out of there.
What happened?
Getting there and back took a long time and transport and entrance to the site were stupid expensive. Due to time constraints, Liebling and I opted to do a day trip from Cusco that had us gritting our teeth in dismay: a round trip journey cost $150 USD per person(!) and involved taking an early morning bus from Cusco to Ollytaytambo, then a train from Ollytaytambo to Aguascalientes, and THEN a bus up the mountain to the entrance of Macchu Pichu. Entrance to the site cost us another $55 USD each, which meant that our trip to Machu Picchu rang in at over $200 USD PER PERSON. And that’s not even including the cost of lunch! More annoying still was the chaos once at the site- it was overrun with tourists, all jockeying to get a Facebook profile pic-worthy shot of Machu Picchu.
I was feeling sick and the weather was poor. I had eaten something the day before that left me with a very sour and unhappy stomach. I also usually suffer from motion sickness, so the winding 30-minute bus ride from Aguascalientes up the mountain to MP’s entrance then back down again had me looking very green. Soon after we entered MP, the heavens let loose and it began to pour rain- an occurrence that exacerbated an already difficult situation.
I was exhausted. The early wakeup and multiple transport changes were accompanied by bursts of confusion at different points in the journey (upon arrival at Aguascalientes we couldn’t find the bus that would take us up the mountain, on our way back in the evening we couldn’t find the shuttle that would take us back to Cusco), leaving me physically and mentally spent by the end of the day.
Bottom line: I was not a happy traveller. Machu Picchu was definitely interesting to see, and I’m glad I went. But it didn’t dazzle me. Lake Titicaca dazzled me. The desert in Huacachina, located in the western part of Peru dazzled me.
Machu Picchu may be one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, but I still maintain that the most impressive place I’ve ever been is Chile’s Atacama Desert.
But that’s just me. Liebling raved about Machu Picchu to friends, while I nodded silently beside him and hoped they wouldn’t ask me what I thought.
Because it almost feels criminal to not agree with the status quo when it comes to certain destinations. People go gaga over Barcelona, but I much prefer Madrid. I went to Bali and didn’t care for Ubud, but fell in love with Nusa Lembongan.
Then again, travel is highly personal. One man’s paradise is another man’s purgatory.
Have you ever been somewhere that just didn’t resonate with you?
83 Comments
Don’t feel bad for not liking a place as much as you think you should. Everyone raves about Prague. I hated it. Sure it’s pretty, but nothing moved me about it. It would be hard to imagine ever going back…
I wasn’t the hugest fan of Prague either!
How were the prices of hotel. It would have cost much more if you staying in Peru a fw nights I am sure. Did you just go there for the day, then fly back? I am interested to know. Thanks
I stayed in Cusco for three nights and did a day trip to MP from there. Prices are fair for hotels! Not too expensive!
Thanks
Sounds like a tough trip! It makes it even harder when there’s even more than 1 person who loves it and you’re just ready to go. Vatican city was amazing, breathtaking and all of the above but as an anxious person who hates crowds, it was by far the most touristy, crowded, anxiety inducing place ever. so I loved the sistine, but wanted to leave as soon as I could!
Agree! I also feel like you shouldn’t feel obligated to stick around for hours if you feel you’ve seen enough.
Oneika,
I enjoy all of your blogs, really, on traveling. You make me absolute miss being a teacher and using my summers to travel. I read your entries and continue to live vicariously through you. But this made me realize that one of the reasons why I enjoy your writing is that it is really so candid and honest and your true perspective and interpretation (for what it’s worth). And you’re correct, although your perspective is totally left of the norm, I appreciate it that much more. I feel that so many people think that they HAVE to give rave reviews of certain places because (1) everyone else did and (2) they’ve spent so much money taking the time to plan the trip, they probably feel obligated to give a great review, even though their experience denotes otherwise.
Keep traveling, keep keeping us informed, and keep smiling.
All the best,
Alisha
Thanks so much Alisha! I try to be as honest as I can- travelling isn’t always a bed of roses and not everything lives up to the hype!
Paris. I just don’t get people’s love for the place. My first three trips there were in quick succession as a 20year old whilst living in the north of England. The first was horrendous, and to some extent has tainted every trip since. After a near 10 year absence, I returned with some friends last year for one of their 30th, willing and wanting to love the place, to get what it was all about. Whilst I still don’t like it, I can now at least see why people might.
Paris seems to be another popular city where people’s opinions are split down the middle!
I agree with Sue, Paris is overrated. However, I did enjoy my trip with my mum last year. I would like to go again now that I’ve done all the touristy stuff as I think it would be nice just hanging out in a few neighbourhoods and people watching.
My trip to Cuba was also a giant disappointment. It was cold half of the trip, I wasn’t completely happy with everyone who ended up going and I am not a resort traveller. I would however like to return but to do it the way I would have done it had I not gone with the people I went with.
When I went to Cuba, I spent the whole time on the resort, so I didn’t really get to know the country. That being said, the pictures I’ve seen of the place just don’t inspire me in the least, yet people rave about it all the time..
Also the good thing about pictures is you can mostly cover up when you’ve had a fight with your other half…no one would be the wiser unless you told them!
haha that’s so true! Pics can often paint quite a different picture to reality…
I am glad you finally wrote about your experience, even if it was less than stellar. Every’s one’s travel experience is a unique as the person and each destination either will move the person (for different reasons that the next person) or leave them cold. There is nothing wrong with that.
I will keep Machu Picchu on my bucket list of places but will do my research and allow ample time to travel and I will add Atacama to my list of places. You’ve made me curious.
I LOVED the Atacama and it’s a shame that it doesn’t get featured on more travel blogs! Let me know if you need any tips for visiting…
As you said, travel is SO highly personal. Don’t feel bad for not liking Machu Picchu – you shouldn’t feel obligated to just because others do.
As for me… I wasn’t really in love with the Blue Mosque in Istanbul. Yes, it was very pretty and grand, but it was crowded and my visit was so rushed because of so many people trying to get in. It was my LEAST favorite mosque in Istanbul.
I thought the Blue Mosque was pretty, but it smelled like feet! LOL. I think that more realistic and honest portrayals of travel are needed in blogging- not everyone is going to like everything, and that’s ok!
Love your honest truth. You’re absolutely right – traveling is so personal. Gerard and I are leaving for Peru in 3 days and are extremely excited. Any tips you can give us would be great! Thanks!
Ooh! Where are you going exactly? Shoot me an email and I’d be delighted to help in any way possible!
Dang!! It’s really that expensive to see Machu PIcchu!? YIkes. You’re right..travel is very personal. I can’t think of any place that I’ve been that has been as disappointing. Guess that means I need to travel more! 😉
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for reading! Yes, I was appalled at how expensive it was as well!
Interesting post. I can understand that hoards of tourists can be very unpleasant and ruin what would be an otherwise beautiful site.
I did not enjoy India. I was very very sick one night and on the drive to Agra. I think India is a country rich in culture and spiritual beauty but the chaos and the lack of cleanliness in some parts really got to me. It was a shock I didn’t really appreciate!
I have heard mixed reviews about India as well, my curiosity is piqued!
Hey Neikita,
I have to disagree with you on that one. Machu Picchu is the best site I ve ever seen in my life. The place is full of a rare energy that you can actually feel. And bad weather is usual up there: it rains most of the year, so it wasnt just you being unlucky. However, the place is so magical so you eventually stop giving a damn after a bit.
Now, I think that your frustration must ve been due to the very high price of the trip. As far as I am concerned, I thought it was ridiculous so I decided to go there by bus, which took ages; plus I had to endure mother uckers taking advantage of the poor education of locals, tryna sell them medicine which, according to them would cure an imaginary disease that most peruvians supposedly had… But that cost me very little so it was worth it; i couldnt ve paid 200 bucks for this trip since this was a 1/4 of my trip budget.
What also pisses me off is the fact that Peruvians only pay like 20 soles while others have to pay 200 euros: I understand that this is a developing country and that people make less money than europeans/north americans, but I dont really like it when there’s distinctions like that between tourists: “locals: this much”, “gringos: that much”. I mean it was the only place where I ve seen that, and I cant imagine how angry the tourists that come to Paris would be if we did the same in France! That s like socio-economic racism or some sh.
Especially as the “owner” (I just cant believe this place belongs to someone) of the site is english and he doesnt care about Peruvians spending less. In conclusion, the place is sick, but I can see why one would be gutted by the business side of it.
It really irks me that there are different prices for locals vs tourists, though I can understand why that is. That being said, I am convinced, just like you, that this historic site is owned by a westerner, in which case it makes me so mad that he is running such a high profit! The locals probably aren’t even benefiting from the high fees!
Nah 250 dollars to see something that should potentially be much less in a developing country.. I would be vex too.. Its not like it’s tokyo! Looks beautiful though, it’s peaked my curiousity.
LOL!
I was not a fan of Paris. I did the touristy parts just to get it out of the way. It was beautiful, but I was turned off by the throngs of people 🙁 I even tried going in the off season! Oh well, I guess I should have expected that one. I enjoyed the good food and great architecture though!! Boo to tourist traps!!!
Despite the crowds I love Paris! But I can see how that could put a damper on your trip!
I feel this way about London, Paris, and Christ the Redeemer (another Wonder of the World) in Rio. To each their own!!! Traveling while sick definitely shapes your experience though…
So glad to know I’m not alone! Different strokes for different folks… 😉
Hi Oneika!
You know I was curious about the travel time it took you two to reach MP, and when I read this post it was confirmed, I knew it would leave one of you exhausted beyond belief! I haven’t visited a place I didn’t like yet but I haven’t been to nearly as many places as you. But I applaud you for being blunt and I appreciate that. As people we aren’t going to like everything and everywhere, but I must say that scenary is stunning!
Yes, our travel itinerary was intense for sure! It was inevitable one of us would get burned out 🙂
$55 to see the Machu Pichu? and $150 for transportation in a developing country? Some countries definitely know how to rip off tourists! I think the stress getting there is the reason why you didn’t enjoy it much. I for one usually don’t find something over-hyped that amazing when I finally get to experience it. I think I now have a low standard for Paris so I won’t be disappointed when I finally get there
I guess I can understand that tourism drives their economy and that as a developing nation they need as much money as they can get. But I still felt as though I was being fleeced!
I feel for you! I too, have been in this situation, more than–ONCE!
I think people are afraid to voice contrary opinions!
I spent about 2 days in Prague this past April. I didn’t get why people rave about the city; I wasn’t impressed by the Square (even the Astronomical Clock) or the Castle and its environs. Now, Budapest, where I spent the next 2 days immediately after Prague, felt bigger and livelier, plus some really interesting museums (my travel “thing”). It’s cheaper too.
Ha! I feel the same way about Prague vs Budapest! I thought that Budapest was much more interesting!
Oh no! What a pity! But I think the price alone would turn me off. Do you think there’s any other way to do Machu Pichu then? Maybe a quieter season or early morning tours?
You can do it cheaper if you hike it and/or take local transportation all the way I think. We unfortunately didn’t have the time to do that! The admission price remains the same, though, so at the end of the day it’s still pretty costly I’m afraid!
I visited Machu Picchu in December 2011 and felt exactly the same as you. Lake Titicaca is the place I came home raving about!
Yes!
I’ve never been to Machu Pichu even though I spent 4 months in Peru. I’m not one for tourist attractions and I spent most of my time exploring the outskirts of Arequipa (admittedly I was working). The same goes for France, I don’t really like Paris, I have had much better experiences exploring the villages in the Auvergne region of France. Similarly I don’t like London – but I love smaller towns and rural areas in England and also Scotland. I’ve been to Rome and I didn’t like it at all – I loved the history etc. but there were too many people.
I much prefer exploring small towns/villages away from the tourist routes where I can learn more about the people, the culture and their way of life. At the moment I’m working in SE Turkey in a small village and I love it when they invite me to eat with them (small mud houses with food they’ve grown) or to a wedding in the village.
Language is a problem, but that is part of the fun!
– Kim – formerly of ‘a kiwi in france’ and ‘a kiwi in Jersey’
I agree that it is crucial to do some non-touristy things in order to round out your perspective of another country. That being said, I have a natural curiosity for seeing things that have been lauded and written and photographed to death. 🙂
When I was traveling in Peru I worked at a hostel in Cusco at a bar and I saw SO many similar situations. People built Machu Picchu up to this magical place and it had to be perfect. A lot of people were really disappointed. After a month I finally went with more realistic expectations and enjoyed it, but honestly it’s not the best thing I’ve seen in South America. It’s not even the best ruins there.
But hey you, you learn!
It’s true! It’s interesting to see but there are other cooler things to see in SA, I agree! So important not to get caught up in the hype.
Probably the most attractive thing about your blog is your honesty. If you didn’t feel it, than you must say. It gives more weight to your positive reviews as well. It’s almost boring to read constant glowing reviews because people are afraid or being different. That said, you took some lovely photos. Keep it lady!
Merci la belle! I try to keep it honest because at the end of the day, I feel like I have to be true to who I am and what I think. I think that going against the status quo also gives other people the courage to step out and be honest with what they feel.
Copenhagen. It’s quaint, accessible and environmentally friendly, but the weather is unbearable a lot of the time, it’s expensive, I don’t find it particularly inspiring (perhaps the Little Mermaid is to blame :-S). I like places that have more character, depth and are even a bit rough/flawed. Give me a Gent, Berlin or Barcelona any day, and throw Bangkok, Beirut and Istanbul in there for good measure.
It’s a shame you didn’t Machu Pichu (I’ve been dreaming about it for ages) but fair enough in the end. If you didn’t enjoy (for whatever reason) you didn’t enjoy and you’re entitled have that experience and share it as well. Not everyone is going to go mad for the same location regardless of how “awesome” they’re touted to be.
I love honest posts like this – I wrote one last week in response to someone asking me if I loved my time in Africa. Love is a strong word and our time in Africa was fraught with robberies, homelessness, difficult working conditions and all of the problems that come with living in a third world country so I can fairly confidently say I didn’t LOVE it. Glad we did it but glad it’s done. Some people get quite defensive when you put it out there that it wasn’t the fireworks like you thought it would be but I appreciate it.
How much you enjoy famous sites depends so much on where you’ve been before. Once you’ve had one really great experience, it’s hard to not compare it to somewhere else. I had a great experience at Angkor Wat in 2008, and I noticed that it raised the bar for all other ruins I’ve seen since. I liked MP but didn’t love it… I enjoyed the setting most of all.
But another thing is that impressions of places are altered depending on how you go. I signed up for a 2 day tour from Cuzco to MP which picked me up right from my hostel, covered the train cost, a night at a hotel in Aguas Calientes, a few meals, and the MP entrance fee and it was about $225. Most things were taken care of and it wasn’t a big rush. Aguas Calientes is a terrible place but it was worth it to stay there and get up early to go for sunrise when it wasn’t so crowded. We stayed at MP for a long time and in the late morning/afternoon it got so packed!
I agree with you in that my MP experience was tainted by the rough time I had getting there! I guess I was salty at the expense and drama of it all, and disappointed that MP wasn’t as “epic” as I would have hoped.
I just visited Machu Picchu for the second time this past week. The first time, in July, I hiked the Inca Trail, and was fit and healthy for the whole thing. Last week, I did Salkantay, but was struck by some sort of stomach bug on the first day and went through a lot of pain over the 5-day hike. It totally changed my experience, and I ended up spending the morning at Machu Picchu sitting on a bench outside the entrance while my group toured the site. Thank goodness I had been there before, or, like you, I would have been largely disappointed. Being sick and tired can affect a lot. Hopefully sometime in the future you will be able to visit again, when you are feeling better. (Maybe the entrance prices will go down by then? Not likely…)
I am leaving this comment slightly belated as I just read this amazing post. I felt the same way about Tokyo! I almost feel ashamed to admit it, like maybe I didn’t experience it right or something? But there is something about hyping up a place so much in your mind, it’s hard for that place to live up to your expectation. I went to Taipei Taiwan with no high hopes whatsoever and loved it so much more than Tokyo. Oh well! I am still so glad that I went and saw it for myself!
You’re right, travel is subjective. Just because everyone else loves a certain place you shouldn’t feel bad when you don’t like it as much. While I did like Uluru (Ayers Rock) I actually preferred Kata Tjuta (the Olgas). Sometimes I’m too afraid to admit that so I admire you’re honesty 🙂
I visited Machu Picchu in 2005 and loved it. I went with a bunch of friends and we did the 4-day hike via the Inca Trail. Yes, I became ill from the altitude, had nasty blisters on my toes, and slept in freezing conditions high up in the mountains. But you know what? I would do it again. I don’t mind roughing it. I can’t recall what I paid but I remember it seemed very low for such a popular destination. It’s a shame that it is so expensive now.
As for a destination that I do not care for…that would be Las Vegas. So tacky.
I really did not enjoy Prague.
I was so excited to finally be going and it didn’t help that every person I mentioned Prague to had a raving review. “It’s so awesome”, “it’s so fun”, “you are going to love it”. I heard thoes statements and so many more when I was planning my trip.
I really tried to find the charm and beauty but it was so hard amidst all the smoke, rude tourist, rude servers, and crowds of all of the smoking, rude tourist.
To each his own…
I’m so sorry you didn’t enjoy it more. Your experience makes me so glad I hiked the Inca trail and I’d really recommend you do it if you get the chance. It was 3 incredible days of hiking through the most amazing landscapes – and we arrived at the Sun Gate in the pre-dawn with no-one else around. I did feel bad for the tourists arriving through the main gates, down there it felt very touristy and nothing like our arrival had been. I hope you’re not put off forever, because the whole inca trail really is something very special. I do agree that the Atacama is one of the most spectacular places on Earth – for me it is joint with Machu Picchu!
MP has been on my list of places to see for ages now, i still really want to go, but it’s good to read this post and get an insight into what its ACTUALLY like rather than the rose tinted stuff you normally see!
Glad you liked the post!
Hi
Loved your post. Very honest.
From what you could remember, is there any other less expensive way to travel to MP?
Sadly not that I remember!
Some said it was overrated.
I think it’s slowly turning into another “Disneyland” 😛
You need to negotiate a better rate. Taking the train to MP is expensive but traveling by bus can be cheap. I spent well under that price and had over night accommodations outside of MP and meals. I think that MP is absolutely stunning. Go early to avoid the crowds.
I feel your pain, Oneika. While I did the Inca Trail hike, a few people in my tour group opted for the train instead. Unfortunately, one of the women in my group (in her late 50s) was completely overcome with altitude sickness and did not get to enjoy MP as much as she wanted to. Worse part – it took her over 40 years before achieving her lifelong travel dream to visit this majestic beauty! Unfortunately, she is now going to have to go back again a second time as she remembers very little of the experience.
Otherwise, to truly appreciate Machu Picchu, it really comes from hiking the Inca Trail. The hike can be physically daunting for some people, especially at Dead Woman’s Pass. So when you arrive at the Sun Gate on the final day of the hike to witness the sunrise, you really feel like you’ve earned the right to be there. Plus, you will start to question how they were able to build this city in the middle of the mountains without the luxury of trains, roads or tools that we have today. That mystery only further intensifies the allure of Machu Picchu. Here’s hoping you get a second chance to return!
I completely understand; I love the way you expressed your distaste. Thank you, as always, for your honest opinion! I hated Santorini, which was really depressing, since I’ve looked forward to it for as long as I remember. Thank you for your honest account!
I can relate. Although these famous places in the world are truly magical, it’s sometimes hard to feel the magic through the hoards of tourists that congregate there. Anyways, I really enjoyed reading a unique perspective on Machu Picchu. Thank you for being truthful about your experience – hard to do when you feel you’re in the minority!
I felt that way about the rim of the Grand Canyon. Years later I did a rim to rim, which actually was amazing! But standing at the rim, surrounded by tourists, didn’t really do it to me. And whenever I say that, I get looked at like I’m crazy.
Sounds similar to my day at Chichen Itza. I was hot, tired, car sick, and dehydrated. It was neat to see…but I didn’t exactly have fun. I get it.
Hi Oneika,
As a Peruvian living abroad, I am disgusted at what they have done to Machu Pichu. Machu Pichu has become a sort of overpriced peruvian Disneyland. Here is some advise for going to Machu Pichu; 1st, it is best to take a late afternoon or evening train from Ollantaytambo and sleep at Aguas Calientes so that you can get to Machu Pichu at sunrise when the site retains some of its magic and before it is totally overrun by tourists. 2nd, part of the insane cost of going to Machu Pichu is the overpriced train. There is an alternative route to go to Machu Pichu which involves local transport from Cusco to Santa Maria, then to Santa Teresa and then a 2 to 3 hour walk on the train tracks to Aguas Calientes (the town below Machu Pichu). Furthermore, you can walk up to Machu Pichu (about 1 hour) and thus save yourself that overpriced uphill bus. This alternative will take at least 3 days but will make a big difference to budget travelers who cannot afford those insane prices.
Now, if you want to see a wondeful Inca site without the crowds, I recommend you go to Choquequirao. The site is actually bigger than Machu Pichu (but mostly covered by jungle) and it takes one and a half days walking to get to (therefore you need 4 full days for the excursion). The bad news is that it is a very strenous walk, the good news is that you can do it very cheaply (about 80 USD for two people) by renting the services of a local mule driver and mule to carry your stuff (you need to rent some camping Equipment) and you get to feel like a real Indiana Jones when you get there (there are very few tourists if any). You start the walk from the town of Cachora (about a 2 to 3 hour bus drive from Cusco).
But hurry because there are plans to build a cable car to access the site, and when that happens it will become Machu Pichu II.
Cheers
Daniel
I felt this way about Angkor Wat. It was a place I’d heard about all my life, but when I got there, I just really felt underwhelmed. Still, I’m glad I went.
Wonderful views on that!
Why is it I always really feel like you do?
Right on my man!
Right on my man!
Why is it I always really feel like you do?
Usually I don’t read article on blogs, but I wish to say that this write-up very pressured me to try and do so! Your writing taste has been surprised me. Thanks, very nice post.|
Comments are closed.